London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012 Report: Simone Rocha

18 February 2012 by

Simone Rocha has been on our list of ones to watch for quite some time now. It was only the other day that we caught up with the designer to talk about Dover St Market exclusively stocking her S/S’12 collection, but ever since her entrance into the fashion fold in 2010, upon graduating from the prestigious Central St Martin’s MA course, her fresh and feminine take on a very boyish minimalism has been keeping fashion editors bums on seats – and plenty of editorial coverage to boot. Even Lady Gaga is a fan and the cute little Bip Ling was on the FROW today – as was Simone’s father, designer John Rocha (who also had a show on today's schedule, the busy bunch!). This is now Simone’s fourth official catwalk season and like many of the young names on both Simone’s NEWGEN circuit and otherwise, the idea is to be evolutionary with each collection and build on signatures and strengths, instead of revolutionising one’s look every season. So that means Simone’s calling cards – like sheer and peekaboo layered fabrics, oversized boxy tailoring, a strict colour palette and texture clashing – still remain, but they’ve developed.

So the frilly and sheer lace pieces of spring/summer were made into more structured and oversized pieces like stiff mini skirts and big bikers. The futuristic clear PVC made a little room for a silver hazy mirror-like leather. And in addition to her standard black and white, ‘moss’ green (although I’d say that was a chartreuse and very nice indeed) was used as a highlight. Texture detail came from mixing up crocheted wool collars, with gauze layered over tweeds (a trend that we’ve already spotted a couple of times), with a peek or two of plastic for good measure. But if we’re talking about tactile surfaces, then the one thing we all really wanted to reach out and touch was what we shall name the shaggy sheep dresses – tufted woollen yarns layered wildly over PVC. That has Simone's quirk stamped all over it. Naturally, her signature Perspex soles continue – but this time brogues came in matching fabric finishes or as a wooden soled pump.

There were rumours flying around that Anna Wintour was coming in for this show, and whilst we were disappointed that such a FROW spectacle didn't come to fruition, you know that when such believable statements start circling around fashion town, you're moving up in the world! Go Simone!


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