There is a mood of reassessment in Milan, as editors and designers all try and figure out how to be most relevant to their readers and customers in a changing world. Old ideas of luxury quickly look out of touch. And collections that were so desirable only last season, can seem to suddenly be cast adrift. The difference between getting it right and getting it wrong is a hair’s breadth subtlety.
Giorgio Armani got it pretty right. I wasn’t convinced by all of the trousers layered under dresses and jackets. That was just over egging the pudding. But the simple pants with their spiral cut legs under a peplum tunic and broad brimmed hat delivered Armani finesse with a relaxed attitude that gets closer to the modern luxury ideal than a lot of people have managed this season.
The Armani customer will love the soft crepe jackets over knee length skirts that had the ease of a lounge suit but the sophistication of city soiree. And the ankle length evening dresses with tulip shaped skirts looked both effortless and elegant at the same time.
Tough times separate the men from the boys and Mr Armani knows what he’s about.
- Paula Reed, in Milan