Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012 Show Report: Marni

26 September 2011

The Italian catwalks have been a riot of colour and print, so Marni, with its opening sequence of simple layered A lines were like sorbet on the palette after a very rich meal. Lemon yellow, sugary pink, minty green and crisp white dresses over organza slips or tunics over shorts came down the runway like blessed relief from fashion overload.

In a venue as hot as a sauna the models with their layers of cotton and organza looked appealingly cool. No cinch, no cling: this was about precision, simplicity and understated femininity: a breathing space in a city that loves a corseted cleavage.

We did eventually segue into print, for Marni without print is like Versace on flats: will never happen. But, the print was crisp like a 1970’s housewife’s freshly ironed tablecloth with lemon, pink and aqua blue daisies, or geometric shapes in yellow and black on white backgrounds.

Virtuoso displays of textile skill are another Marni signature: and the lace can probably only be fully appreciated close up, but looked like a high tech rendition of that same 70’s housewife’s crisply starched curtains.

The finale took a fabulous left turn into the Masai Mara with working beading and raffia weaves into those simple A lines that put an exotic spin on all that of 1970’s domestic bliss.

I’m putting my name down now for the frame bags with brogue trim and the correspondent court shoes. See you in the queue.

- Paul Reed in Milan


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