25 September 2011

Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2012 report: Bottega Veneta

Joy. Not a lot of that about these days, is there?  But the sangria colours and fluttering silks at Bottega Veneta brought on smiles and memories of sunshine.

Creative Director Tomas Maier creates a collectible dress: the kind that stays in your wardrobe for years without advertising the season you got it. For summer 2011 I’d head straight for the plisse silk shifts and the leather and suede shirt dresses.

This is a label that is quintessentially urban. It’s a grand Italian luxury house after all. But this season Thomas Maier seemed to be working on the wardrobes of those eternally on holiday, or at the very least eternally in a holiday frame of mind. This collection had a bohemian quality. And with the jeans, tuxedos and biker jackets, he seemed to be bucking the formality of Bond St, Montenapoleone and Avenue Montaigne and veering as close to anti fashion territory as a luxury house can safely get.

A thigh length tailored jacket, over dark indigo straight legged jeans and long fringed scarves; a silk satin poncho blouse the colour of a tequila sunset over pink marble dyed jeans; jet embroidered cocktail dresses with swingy flapper style fringing: they all spoke of a woman who has had enough of the serious things in life and is looking for an escape. There was something of the cartoon runaway’s sack on a stick in the soft tote that opened the show. And the classic intracciato shoppers looked like baskets you take to market.

Fancy dropping out in Bottega Veneta ? Now wouldn’t we all want a piece of that?

- Paula Reed, in Milan


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