MFW S/S '12 Show Report: Prada

23 September 2011

A good Prada show is like settling down with a great book. You know it may take a look (chapter) or two to figure it out, but once you are stuck in you can’t tear yourself away and when it’s over it’s always too soon. This season’s show was  a blocbuster.

It started, in a venue furnished with Styrofoam sports cars, with a classic riff on the 50’s: sunray pleated knee length skirts, deep shirred elastic waists and flower embroidered bomber jackets. Could Miuccia be going preppy? The flares of pink oil spills on the floor hinted at something  more synthetic and a little less peachy keen.

The early clue in the bomber jacket turned out to be a bit of a blind alley when they were followed by Miami pink rose embroidered skirts and bandeau tops with nursery wallpaper car prints and shoes with hot rod wings. Seemed like there was something a little dark and a bit more ‘David Lynch’ adding some fashion backbone to this American soda fountain vision.

Chiffon sunray pleated skirts and negligee light A line coats in confectionary colours had touches of poisonous red thrown in that jarred the eye. With these candy coloured ensembles, bags were attaché shaped and business like. Summer dresses had screen printed hot rod flames licking around the hem. And the shoes……! Heaven help us but come hell or high interest rates, next summer we will all be lusting after the Prada wedges with metallic flame wings.

The show built to a glittery crescendo of jewelled satin coats with hot rod cars screen printed on the back worn with elegant sling backed shoes and embroidered clutches.

If you ever look at the headlines and despair that politicians and bakers have sucked the joy out of life, then console yourself that fashion will always have a trick like Prada up its jewelled sleeve. And even if you are buried in boring bills, the idea of metallic sling backed winged wedges is bound to bring the sun out. 

- Paula Reed in Milan


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