Craig Lawrence – Gareth Pugh’s former knitwear designer, is evolving his knitted repertoire each season. For S/S ’12 He’s chosen a lot of metallic rose gold yarn, dusky beige pink as well as cream shreds of material that he knits with, creating a loose-knit effect, somewhere in between lace and crochet. The end result was a kind of slouchy, teenager-in-the-nineties effect of layered leggings, miniskirts, crop tops and off the shoulder sweaters over knitted racerback vests, but we all know the real joy and the USP of a Craig Lawrence piece isn’t really about the silhouette, it’s the intricate surface and texture created by his techniques. This season, as well as the effect of layering up knitted garments of varying degrees of sheerness, the combination of the pale, feminine, colour palette and the addition of Swaroski crystallized (TM) embellishment made us think of the seaside, shells, pebble beaches and sand. The curious spikey headdresses and spikey tights made by Steven Docherty reminded us of sea urchins too.
In the show notes, we saw that Craig had named the photographs of Martin Parr as an inspiration (he’s the one who takes those un-posed, reportage shots of British people enjoying their tradition pastimes with unflattering but recognisable results) and the British seaside so we felt we were all in agreement. The best thing about the show were the glittering, glinting, crystal encrusted dresses (Craig collaborated -very successfully - with Swarovski Elements) and the gold metallic tights, made for Craig by Patternity.
- Naomi Attwood