17 September 2011

LFW S/S ’12 Report: Basso & Brooke

As we all know, Brazilian Bruno Basso and British Christopher Brooke have been the engineers of the digital print revolution since the year 2004 when they emerged onto the scene via winning Colin McDowell’s London fashion talent contest, Fashion Fringe. Since then, digital printing and the possibilities enabled thereby have become much more the norm than the something unusual, and so people like Basso and Brooke have had to raise their game by continually evolving their designs, often by layering on more and more complicated collages. For their S/S ’12 collection they decided, not to pare down exactly, but to loosen up the positioning of their motifs. Very large images, both of flowers and of abstract, oil-on-water swirls in hyper vivid colours, were spread more haphazardly, and more organically over the garments. Patterns too had been loosened up, with ultra light chiffon, silk and sheer textures on flowing maxis, bias cut T shirt dresses and tailored short suits. The palette really sang, with clear aqua and turquoises, soft dove greys, tropical yellows, tangerines and limes and rich violets. The stand-out garment for us was the maxi dress with a huge pink V down the front and smaller prints smattered to either side.  We also loved a cropped tuxedo jacket with oversized lapels – how neatly that would slot into our fashion week wardrobe, we thought as it sashayed past.    

Backstage the design duo were visibly tired and adrenaline-pumped but talked enthusiastically of embracing asymmetry in this collection, the excitement of putting on a runway show and how a marathon car journey, from Britain to Beijing undertaken by Bruno had informed his dreams and imagination to come up with many of the ideas for this seasons prints. How marvellous!

- Naomi Attwood


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