Outfits in La Dureee colours opened the Phillip Lim show. Shades of rose and violet and vanilla, layered over lemon and pistachio suggest a summer full of sunshine in a wardrobe that is unapologetically modern. Phillip Lim is making a confident stab at a very feminine kind of dressing for a tough urban environment which means loose tailored trousers drawn close to the leg with zips along the side seams; fluid gilet jackets over soft vest tops; sleeveless kimono coats in neoprene and subtle colour combinations of pastels or pale greys, creams and black.
The look was androgynous variations on a theme that was created around trousers and shorts, apart from the unexpected appearance of a dress in soft focus print that was somewhere between a flower and a rorshach ink blot.
It’s very simple, very easy, very New York. And I for one was hugely relieved to find not one reference to a past decade or a distant country.
- Paula Reed in New York