NYFW S/S '12 report: Theyskens Theory

14 September 2011

Tomboy styles are already well established for A/W, now, by the looks of Olivier Theyskens latest collection for Theory, there'll be enough mannish styles to last us till Micklemas 2012. Theysken's Theory collection was a mix up of beautifully casual, instantly wantable pieces, since Theory is a mid-price brand, neither High Street nor really high end.

His key shapes were trousers, miniskirts and dresses and jackets. The trousers were the most interesting, as Theyskens had cleverly conceived of a solution to high waist/hipster dilemma - by somehow creating pants that clung to both, due to an ingenious double waistband. Sounds wrong but looked really right. All the models had their hands wedged firmly into their pockets - and it somehow looked appropriate. Even though this was the runway at NYFW none of the girls looked as though they would be out of place in a chic version of everyday life.

The slouchy trousers were neither particularly tapered or flared, but gave a 'straight up and down' feel to the outfits and the addition of fitted jackets - either soft shouldered and waist-length or power shouldered and fitted at the waist, felt perfectly in sync with how modern women want to dress - comfortable bottoms and a jersey, rather than button-down top, with a bit of tailoring slung on over the top to bring the look together, and perhaps some posh shoes.

If this is all starting to make you want to nod off - then don't! it wasn't all workaday separates and neutral hues. Theyskens riffed on the idea of iridescence in a couple of different ways - he had treated some of the leather pants with a kind of shimmery foil, giving a lovely Ariel from the Little Mermaid effect, as well and crystal embellishments on some of the cute little jackets, which had the same underwater effect. Just for fun, the last few looks were great, galleon-like delicately deconstructed gazar ball gowns, just to remind everyone of the reason his name gets mentioned every time the topic of Lagerfeld's retirement comes up, (even if it didn't in the case of Galliano) - i.e. there's more to this designer than slouchy pants!


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