13 September 2011

NYFW S/S ‘12 Report: Marc By Marc Jacobs

 

Well it seems like colour blocking has not yet run its course. A concise message from Marc Jacobs for his second line, Marc By Marc Jacobs, could be summed up by the simple combination of utilitarian, tailored cottons in basic navy, khaki, cream and black with fluorescent highlights.

Crisp oversized shirts were roomy enough to be worn as dresses and styled with oversized totes and wedges in colour blocked patent. A simple drop waisted blouson shirt in fluorescent coral was colour blocked with navy tailored shorts. A drop waisted silk shift was a colour block contrast of emerald and navy.

Heavy high top trainers accessorized horizontal striped dresses with frilled peplum hems. And the option to the outsized totes were mini structured satchels or drawstring Dorothy bags in emerald or navy: perfect for colour blocking with your basic neutrals. The finale was a bold parade of eye bright primaries and colour blocked fluorescents interspersed with bold stripes.

We rely on Marc Jacobs for forging a challenging fashion lead at NY fashion week. Having delayed his main line collection owing to time lost for the summer hurricane it was unusual to start with the more commercial Marc by Marc Jacobs line. And the crowd in the vast Armoury venue dispersed afterwards feeling a little undersold. It was a collection of what Americans call sportswear and we call seperates, merchandised with sales rather than fashion message in mind. My problem is it felt like commercialized Prada and Jil Sander from summer 2010 and I’m not sure how that will fly in 2011.

- Paula Reed in New York


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