12 September 2011

NYFW S/S ‘12 Report: Victoria Beckham

Well, it looks like Victoria Beckham may well be gearing up for a classic British summer given that she opened her S/S'12 collection with an ultra violet blue coat over stretch leather leggings. It was a very covered up collection with an urban, sporty feel. It confirmed her position as a woman with her finger on the luxury pulse. And to any woman in the audience who has ever been pregnant it looked like a message from someone who was desperate to ditch her maternity wardrobe.

Coming from one whose home is now LA and who has just delivered her fourth child, we could have been forgiven for expecting something altogether softer. But nine weeks after giving birth to baby Harper and back to her pin slim pre pregnancy figure, Victoria was pushing a fashion agenda that had nothing to do with the beach or babies.

Adding French super stylist, Marie Amelie Sauve to her creative team, the collection was shown in a narrow hall of the NY Public Library on a day when the city marked the 10th anniversary of September 11th. Having observed the city wide silences as marks of respect, Victoria stood to address the audience but was cut short by a blast of music that signaled the start of the show and had her dashing back to her seat.

Model of the moment Arizona Muse was first to stride down the runway in a collarless coat with flared peplum hem over those leggings that finished with stirrups under high heeled court shoes.

Dresses were, as we’ve come to expect from VB, second-skin tight: a strapless sheath of ultra violet with a deep band of black at the waist cut some uncompromising curves. Another banded dress of ultra violet with vivid orange shoulders and waist panel was accessorized with a covetable tote the same brilliant colour.

Short tunic style dresses had a 1960’s geometric feeling to them and were styled with flat sandals with ribbon bound ankles. A military coat dress complete with epaulettes was cut in blush crepe and styled with Stephen Jones’ patent confederate cap.  Apron dresses and dresses with pleated tennis skirts were finished with her signature exposed zips.

The undeniable hits of the collection were the sporty yet luxurious parkas cut in storm cloud coloured gazar, a couture fabric that is perfect for delivering glossy volume. They looked easy and glamorous over white mini skirts and ankle pieces that turned the court shoes into short boots.

Pushing the accessories, rounding out the selection of dresses with coats and jackets and putting the collection on the runway as a show rather than a presentation, shows Mrs Beckham is making confident strides into the fashion establishment.

- Paula Reed in New York


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