12 September 2011

NYFW S/S ‘12 Report: Derek Lam

Uptown gloss with a hint of the American west is becoming a familiar part of the Derek Lam signature. Not for the first time did the designer use a tab collared shirt and a paneled jacket to add an edge to perfectly ladylike separates.

For summer the show opened with a lacey knit two piece: a snowy short sleeved top and knee length skirt styled with a mustard jacket with donkey brown yoke that could as easily carried off a ten gallon hat as the 10cm court shoes with which it was accessorized.

Cropped jeans cut in navy silk with a pale mustard shirt and contrasting yoke carried the theme well into white table cloth restaurant territory. Leather tunic tops and shift dresses had a stiff, almost sculpted quality looking utilitarian like the hand of a saddlemaker was involved.

The collection leapt to life with fluorescent orange and coral tones used to make a trench coat vibrant and to lift lace panelled dresses and simple floor length gowns way out of the ordinary.

- Paula Reed in New York


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