NYFW S/S ’12 Report: Jason Wu

10 September 2011

If you were to draw a matrix, with ‘modernity’ up the side and ‘prettiness’ along the bottom, Jason Wu could expect to have his mark made right on the intersection, so clever is his balance. Take his latest collection – for S/S ‘12, his palette was made up of dolly-cute ballet pink, sherbert lemon and royal blue, cut through with black, white grey and navy. The first section of looks to strut out kept to monochrome  - leg-baring tailored knickerbockers with fitted collared shirts and looser, more flowing jackets with the odd pussy bow thrown in, in cream silk; see what we mean about the pretty/modern dichotomy?

Then as the REAL show - Wu’s state of the art ballgowns and eveningwear started to glide out onto the catwalk - things began to really light up. He’s been cited as ‘the next Oscar De La Renta’ but although you could imagine choosing between wearing a ODLR or Jason Wu to the same event, (not MObama - she'd cut straight to the Jason Wu chase, though!) there is something about Mr Wu that takes big skirts and sleek bodices, strips them of frothy frills and leaves the shape there, unspoiled. Neither are his gowns imposing or historical in the way that Galliano or Vivienne Westwood result in when they ‘go big’.

Apparently Jason Wu is well up on the latest textile technology advances and uses a lighter-than-air nylon to create his jackets and when you look at those super young models (Wu’s casting looks like the result of a mass wash and brush-up of the neighbourhood’s tomboys) flouncing down the runway in layer upon layer of a full gown, it really is as effortless as it looks, as such is Wu’s knowhow, they don’t weigh more than a scrap!



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