What a spiffing end to Paris fashion week. The Miu Miu show sent us all on our ways to homebound trains and planes with a smile on our faces. With the Kate Bush soundtrack in the incredible Hypostyle Hall of the 1950’s Le Palais d’Iena building, Miuccia Prada’s vision of the future dressed in 1940’s silhouette, was pure escapism.
Coat dresses and improbably short jackets over bare legs were cut with exaggerated rounded shoulders in thick wool that looked like military drab. Neat white collars next to the face, lightened the overall effect and dazzling gold shoes with chunky heels added glamour worthy of Joan Crawford. Huge clutch bags with gold clasps were shaped like outsized Dorothy bags.
Wool flannel pants with elasticated hems and high waists worn with tops cut like sweatshirts and accessorized with peaked hats had the whiff of land girl about them.
Simple crepe day dresses with blouse style tops, bias cut skirts and a wide bow tie at the hip in combinations of cream, navy and black or rust and black were achingly elegant. Tea dresses with embroidered springs of lily of the valley or swooping swallows in sparkling crystals looked refined and perfectly in keeping with the winter trend for polite ladylike dressing. And the simple knee length black crepe evening dresses with sleeves encrusted in embroidery or made from sweeping circles of fur were reminiscent of a more romantic time when no lady would ever been seen out without a hairdo and her lipstick.
Miu Miu is considered by many to be the girlish incarnation of Prada. But this collection was full of a very grown up womanly elegance.
- Paula Reed in Paris