The Yves Saint Laurent collection and Giles Deacon’s first proper show for Ungaro crystallised the bi polar mood at the Paris shows this week. While YSL showcased Parisian perfection, Ungaro provided the flip side which, as we learned from Catherine Deneuve in the movie Belle Du Jour, is often something much naughtier. And it was the seemy side of Paris, the city of pleasure, that was inspiring Giles at Ungaro. The sirens of his City of Light are the ones who like it best after dark. High ponytails and leather collars accessorized strict corseted shifts with transparent lacey shoulders. Strictly tailored coat dresses and tight skirts over glossy black tights were more dominatrix than jolie madame. It was an uncompromising vision for a house that crafted a brand image out of floral prints and flirty dresses.
- Paula Reed in Paris