PFW A/W '11 Report - CELINE

07 March 2011

Phoebe Philo’s minimalist aesthetic is a key inspirational force in fashion today. You can’t go far without finding the influence of her signature streamlining simplicity. Trouble is, this is a world with a notoriously low boredom threshold that has been raised on seasonal change and fast fashion. Fashion show audiences find it hard to adapt to progress that is based on evolution rather when they have become addicted to radical change.

But the Celine customer is a woman who spends large amounts of money, safe in the knowledge that the designer won’t abandon her for a vision that makes her wardrobe irrelevant from one season to the next.

Simple, long sleeved, rounded necked wool shift dresses in earthy brown were worn with mid heeled shoes. Skinny trousers that zipped over the same masculine inspired courts were worn with tailored A line layers of jackets over tunics. The base layer throughout was a second skin white polo neck.

I am loving the tunic and trousers as an option to the skirt suit this season and Celine’s were particularly good, cut slim and hip length in chocolate crepe over straight legged trousers.  The pursuit of simplicity can sometimes be achieved at the cost of femininity. Some of the jackets sculpted in high tech double face fabrics teetered to far over to the austere side. But sweeping A line coats dropping from collarless necks to mid calf had loads of evening drama and still had a sharp day time silhouette.

In the separates, the simplicity had a 1960’s feeling: the polish of a Hitchcock heroine (St Moritz or Gstaad bound). But it was a hint rather than homage. It felt sharp and modern: another building block in the eminently desirable Celine wardrobe.

 - Paula Reed in Paris


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