PFW A/W '11 Report - Roland Mouret

05 March 2011

He’s got his name back, he’s got a brand new headquarters and his own shop. M. Mouret has more than a couple of reasons to be cheerful this fashion week, but judging by this collection, it’s clearly not gone to his head. The collection was comprehensive – with pieces for every time of day and every occasion. A suit with wide-legged pants in soft grey, little jackets, a comfy cardigan, midi skirts for day and nifty draped shirt dresses that came to above the knee, plus more luxurious longer gowns for evening. Silhouettes were relaxed without being baggy – a woman-friendly, wearable set of creations.

Maybe the new premises have focused his mind on creating pieces that will fly off the shelves. For Autumn /winter various shades of grey, from slate to pumice formed the basis of many of the daytime looks. As the show drew on, the evening looks borrowed the rich colours of oil paints for its highlights – each dress in a block colour without print or embellishment, just the drape and swing of the material to add interest. Russet red, emerald green and deep ochre, with one dress in sky blue, like the colour of men’s cotton pyjamas, and several very smart pieces in navy silk that reflected the light. Looks were finished off with a neat black ribbon tie around the waist, which unified the otherwise diverse collection.


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