28 February 2011

MFW A/W '11 Report - Dolce & Gabanna

Spivs and Sirens at Dolce & Gabanna

In stark contrast to Tom Ford's ethos of guarding the details of his new collection by only showing it to a handful of top fashion editors and forbidding them from reporting on it let alone taking pictures of it, the Dolce boys operate a policy of access all areas. The catwalk at their permanent show space at the old Metropole theatre in Milan is flanked by huge screens which live-stream the goings on backstage... models having their hair and make up done, Domenico picking out some last minute accessories, Stefano and the show stylist Tabitha Simmons checking that each model looks perfect before she steps on to the catwalk - facinating stuff. It meant that before the show even started we all knew that the collection was a play on the masculine/feminine theme that the pair have returned to many times over their career and that stars and musical notes were the prints of the season.

Model of the moment Arizona Muse (how could a girl with a name like that not be a star?) opened the show to the strains of Bowie and Jagger's 'Dancing in the Streets'. Dressed in knee-length trousers, a shrunken double breasted jacket and pork pie hat, she was followed by Candice Swanepoel - all va va voom in a lace panelled, star emblazoned second skin shift dress - and the spivs and sirens theme was set.

For the spivs, oversized double breasted jackets, skinny pants (often sequined) and fat ties ruled, with boyish brogues and braces completing the look. Meanwhile the sirens sashayed down the runway in sexy frocks cinched with skinny belts threaded with purses or small pouch bags (chic bum bags if you like) and accessorised with black ankle socks worn with point toe stilettos, structured lady bags and huge dangling star earrings. There was some cross-over; Chanel Iman wore a sparkling pink sheath dress with a mannish double breasted jacket, silver brogues and a pork pie hat perched on the back of her head.

The Dolce boys are always good for a picture perfect show finale and this one was didn't disappoint; the spivs and sirens streamed en masse onto the catwalk like a riot of monochrome to Bowie's 'Modern Love', it was the perfect end to a vintage Dolce & Gabanna show.

- Siobhan Mallen in Milan


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