24 February 2011

MFW A/W '11 Report: Gucci

Glamour and er.. culottes at Gucci

Today the fashion travelling circus arrived in Milano. Bright blue skies and the first show – Gucci – kicked our fashion fatigue (brought on by a 5.30 am start and maybe just one too many glasses of champagne over LFW) into touch. Think mouth-watering colour (emerald green, brick red, Kingfisher blue, claret, mustard, teal...). Think Seventies (from billowing maxi gowns to culottes and pussy-bow blouses). Think MAJOR glamour. Add in a shot of Gucci's signature sex appeal and you have the A/W '11 collection Frida Giannini, the house's creative director sent out this afternoon.

Looking at the images from the show, what strikes me is how so many of the pieces in the show precariously toe the line between fabulous and frumpy – it takes a certain girl with shedloads of confidence to make a bow blouse and culottes combo cool! The key, it seems, is one part in the unexpected colour combinations (who'd have thought lavender, rust, claret and plum would work together, but they do). And two parts polish - there is no room for anything less than perfection on the grooming front. Glossy plum coloured lips and and a simple but immaculate do, along with killer accessories (sexy-as-hell croc knee boots, squared-off oversized sunglasses, neat structured hand held bags and colourful trilbys pulled down, just so) kept the Gucci girls firmly in the Angelica Houston in her heyday (Giannini's inspiration for the collection) version of the 1970's and avoided any Margaret Thatcher in her heyday associations.

For evening Frida turned it up a notch or four. Gowns were long, sure, but in no way prim. Despite being slashed to the thigh (the thigh is shaping up to be a/w's hottest errogenous zone), twisted to reveal toned stomachs or with entirely sheer skirts, they side – stepped being obvious and managed to be both sexy and dreamy at once.

The seventies get a bad rap for being the decade that style forgot. This Gucci collection proved that not only is that catagorically not true, but that decade's take on wearable glamour is totally relevant in 2011 too.

What I loved

  • The sheer decadence of the collection – The Gucci girl is an unashamed fur-clad rich bitch.
  • The crazy colour combinations that really shouldn't have worked, but so did.
  • The refined shapes that ran through the day wear– slim upper, waist nipped by skinny belt and gentle flare (skirt or trouser). Truly the most flattering silhouette.
  • The play between buttoned up priss and uber sexy miss (think sheer pussy bow blouses and sensible A line button though skirts... with the buttons undone to the upper thigh).
  • The seriously A -MAZING flares. Gotta get me some of them!

- Siobhan Mallen In Milan


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