Last season Marios Schwab threw us all off track. The mullet ‘dos of his lace-slipped (or should we say slipping out) Joan Jetts had us longing for the wonderful body-sculpting tailoring and corseting he’s so naturally proficient in (well, he did spend his youth watching his father engineer women’s underwear). It was an off season, and by the looks of it, a one-off too. And thank gawd, because we just love what he’s doing in his third season at Halston as Creative Director.
But let's concentrate on his own line in London: we found Marios fighting back with a girl who we imagined to be a type of slinky female version of Jason Bourne – far better dressed (of course), stealthy, sexy and about to kick some serious ass, whether she’s smashing through the window of high speed train or poisoning an oil baron at a fabulous cocktail party. Now, this wasn’t Marios’s actual line of inspiration (he was influenced by a 20th century essay called Ornament and Crime by Austrian architect Adolf Loos – sounds much more intelligent) but this is how the leather gloves worn with practically everything, all-terrain glam puffas, tough silver-tipped harnessing and strict, austere tailoring came across. Marios continues along his more pared-back path, which we approve of, but even the draped finale gowns, flourished with pearl beaded halter neck straps looked deadly enough to seduce the baddest of baddies, even if we're not as keen on the pearl encrusted thing for ourselves, yet...
These are the five things we loved:
- Red felted coat with contrasting leather sleeves (the mismatched sleeve trend is really picking up now, isn’t it?)
- The subtle brogue-detailing on his leather neckpieces.
- Oxblood leather biker trousers. Absolutely one of the colours of the season.
- Ultra glamorous puffa jackets (didn’t we tell you last winter that these were THE new outerwear?) Especially the khaki jutting hemmed one.
- Teal blue stiff wool wrap skirt.
by Hannah Almassi