22 February 2011

LFW A/W '11 Report: Peter Pilotto

The third day of LFW kicked off with the Peter Pilotto show at the Top Shop space in the old Billingsgate fish market.  For Autumn/Winter ’11 the pair (confusingly Peter Pilotto is actually a design duo – Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos – Pilotto’s focus is the prints the label are known for, while De Vos creates the silhouettes) moved away from the feminine shapes and colourful prints on which they built their label, and have embraced an altogether harder, more austere and masculine aesthetic. According to the show notes, this was inspired by political unrest from history (the Paris riots in 1969) to the present day (the student revolution)… Anyway, as a result the palette was muted; greys, winter white, rust (the colour of the season so far), navy, brick and black were the mainstay with an exception of one acid yellow satin dress.

Shapes were tougher too, my favourite looks came at the start of the show; tailored coats in winter white and black panels, some of them sleeveless (sleeveless coats and jackets were a bubbling trend for S/S ‘11 and they are shaping up to be HUGE for A/W '11), worn with mannish loose trousers. Peter Pilotto are best known for their dresses, there were dresses this season too – lots of them, but none of flirty party frocks of seasons gone by. For next season, mid-calf length tube dresses, with twisted neck details and strapless printed floor length numbers in digi prints (another big trend).  Some of the looks were a little over-complicated; a multiple layer and clashing prints too far maybe, but where this collection shone – the coats, the trousers and the Nicholas Kirkwood designed fab boots (he was obviously pleased with his handywork - and rightly so, they were gorgeous, especially the knee high versions – as he couldn’t take his eyes off them all through the show!), it was beautifully executed and very wearable.

- Siobhan Mallen


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