Holly Fulton’s A/W ’11 collection opened with several very prim tweed looks. Except the tweed itself was woven from oversized black and yellow yarn; first a little skirt and then a shift dress of the same material. It set the tone for the collection as a whole - which was kind of a remix of the Chanel aesthetic, but with a very colourful, modern girl in mind.
A dazzling canary yellow shift looked like simplicity itself from the front but the back revealed a cut-out panel of black sheer fabric decorated with Holly’s geometic patterns. Indeed, Coco Chanel visiting
As the show went on, more and more creations came out – each one quite different from the last, but each one deluxe. Swingy coats trimmed with bushy, brushed out shearling, fitted mini dresses embellished with crystals, tailored cigarette pants, suit jackets, shifts and then, most marvellous of all, a series of either painted or printed silk pieces – astonishing full-skirted maxi dresses, plus a long-sleeved silk shift and gorgeous palazzo pants – wide enough to hide your shopping in, and in a brilliant Rolling Stones/Andy Warhol lip print. A simple capped sleeve top with one pair of trousers appeared to be constructed entirely of giant pearls. Beautiful. The very full skirts were reminiscent of a certain French fashion house where Holly was once apprenticed, although you would be unlikely to see such a bold graphic print on the silk skirts at Lanvin.
Holly’s collections are always colourful, and many looks are quite graphic but there is nothing wacky about the cuts or the finish on them. They are seriously smart outfits for a perfectly polished version of ‘the
- Naomi Attwood