A seriously self assured show from Antonio Berardi: manipulating silhouettes by means of master tailoring is a signature of this designer and in Winter seasons he really thrives on experimenting with volume and fabric.
If I tell you that the silhouette was pretty much about an enlarged rounded shape or alternatively overlapping layers, you are going to think big and bulky. Berardi’s skill is in working heavy and textured fabrics such as felted wools and thick rib knits into silhouettes that looked unexpectedly light and lively.
For this, asymmetric jacket shapes, with deep revers and an A line cut were styled over flippy thigh length skirts. Mid thigh length jackets in teddy wools or felted tweeds were styled over ¾ length cigarette pants. This was my absolute favourite shape. That softly rounded, hip covering top layer over a skinny leg is emerging as a major trend. And mark my words the generous jacket as a substitute for a coat is going to be one of next winter’s must-haves.
Evening wear was glossy with a distinct rock ‘n’ roll dandy vibe. Jet, scarlet or molten lame evening gowns with lace panels will undoubtedly be making an appearance on a red carpet near you before long. But for my money the brocade trouser suit with shapely jacket (a Berardi classic) and skinny trouser, or the steely grey A-line jacket over kick flare trouser looked sharp and modern.
It was a polished performance that proves Berardi is an international force and on the first day a lot of the international press turned out, his collection was pure London pride.
- Paula Reed