20 February 2011

LFW A/W ‘11 Report: Charles Anastase

A resounding "I loved it" and the flurry of favourite-piece-bagsy in the Grazia car after Charles Anastase's show, put an official stamp on it: the Frenchman's collections are ready for a wider (and dare we say it) more commercial audience. We've long been fans of his style signatures (princess coats, whimsical dolly dresses and onesies) but in the past his fantastically strong creative side has occasionally swayed into wacky unwearable territory. But for this coming autumn/winter, every single piece will find a loving and chic home - and we'd like it to be ours!

The Charles girl, whilst retaining her ever-so-Parisienne coquettishness and naughty boarding school-girl sex appeal looks more refined, sultry and grown-up. Maybe she's having her first smoke and heading off to college. The proof was in the extended boiled wool princess swing coats and sleeveless jackets (the most amazing being a shimmering claret pony-skin or the softest tufted pink mohair) along with natty skinny flared woollen trouser suits, demure blouses, button back jumpers over wide leg pants and midi length silky dresses in scarlet and printed with a blown up version of the horse image featured on the show invites. Of course quirkiness wasn't hard to find despite this sophisticated turn - a bonkers super-shiny mock Croc coat and matching dress or the pink satin wedding gown (Kate? Are you watching?) and nude satin underwear-as-outerwear. No sooner did the mega '70s inspired wedges (by Natacha Marro, but of course - who else could create a wedge so vertiginously high?) stomped down the catwalk could we conjure up the image of his creative consultant (and model/muse/stylist/DJ) Valentine Fillol Cordier doing a late night discoteque jaunt in them, teamed up with one of the three tailored, Peter Pan collared jumpsuits. Which one? We couldn't possibly decide!

- Hannah Almassi


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