15 February 2011

NYFW A/W ‘11 Report: Theyskens Theory

Everyone pitched up for Oliver Theyskens first runway outing for Theory. This is his second collection for the label. His time at Rochas in Paris turned the softly spoken, deceptively youthful looking designer into a cult superstar.  A move from French high fashion to a project where day dresses could sell for under $500 and trousers for under $300 was a move no one expected. What…..no chiffon ball gowns?

As it turns out his timing was impeccable. There is a desire for a way to take the classic pillars of our wardrobes and work some glamour into them without compromising the ease that makes them our daily staples. This is what Olivier Theyskens has achieved, apparently effortlessly, with Theory.

Wide, pleat fronted trousers with simply grey sweaters were an instant reminder of what Lauren Bacall was talking about back when she said, ‘I love wearing trousers because I can sit like a truck driver”. Soft golden brown needlecord flares were styled with swingy, skinny claret coats: an instantly seductive colour combination. Mannish knee length coats over short shorts and printed silk maxi’s had overtones of 1970’s nostalgia but still looked very 2011. Papery leather tailored jackets were cinched with a knotted belt and worn over ankle length diaphanous layers.

These were extraordinary clothes for women with ordinary wardrobe budgets. Hurrah!

- Paula Reed in New York


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