NYFW A/W ‘11 Report: Marc Jacobs

15 February 2011

Clearly Marc Jacobs is dotty about spots for AW '11! Not that that makes for a playful collection, oh no, Marc is cracking the whip and calling for strict discipline - with a touch of the dominatrix. To the thundering drums and chanting of Marilyn Manson's Beautiful People, models were tightly constricted in second-skin pencil skirts, berets  secured to their heads with cashmere chinstraps, atop facelift-inducing ponytails, and waists nipped in severely structured jackets. With almost everything adorned with spots in rubber, leather or glitter. Rubber trousers, t-shirts and shirts were produced by London's fetish latex designer House of Harlot, even seemingly 'girly' sequinned dresses and skirts were actually made of rubber - which explained the show's vinyl padded pillars and backdrop.
 
The silhouettes were narrow, and although Marc loosened up a little with softer(ish) blouson jackets, peplums and sailor trousers, this was a collection that plans to restrict you. Of course, this being Mr Jacobs, there were lots of quirky details from the galoshes and the snow boots, through the lurex spotted socks and the shearling bags with black baubles, or the 'wipe-clean' patent bags, the notes describe as car-paint. Even though the collection was buttoned up and revealed very little flesh, it felt quite young and is more likely to be seen on Gossip Girl Leighton Meester than on Whoopi Goldberg or Martha Stewart, all of who were front row. But peel the layers apart and the plaid suiting, perfect shirting or jacquard dresses will be much more forgiving.
 
But in the end it comes down to this - Marc, I've been a very bad girl and I need to be taught a lesson...preferably whilst wearing looks, 6, 13, 42 and 63. Really, it's the only way I'll learn.
 
- Kay Barron


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