Donna Karan went super feminine with a collection that was all about how to drape a curve. Fabrics like felted wool, alpaca and double knit jersey sum up the luxury. While a colour palette described as blush, face powder, moonstone and autumn haze tell you there was nothing androgynous about this one.
The silhouette was vaguely 1940’s with emphasis on a defined shoulder, waist and hip. Like Dashiell Hammet heroines, the Donna Karan models smouldered on the runway. They may have been wrapped in baby soft fabrics but you kind of knew that beneath the fuzzy exterior was a street smart broad.
Hems fell just below the knee. Arms were covered by long gloves, some with deep fur cuffs, offering a smart way to work New York’s love affair with the furry sleeve. Each look was accessorized with a string of pale pink or grey pearls, cream ribbed tights, pale court shoes and neat Gladstone bags.
Molten silver satin created screen idol presence in draped dresses and blouses. A classic cotton trench was cut with dramatic volume. And one of the few pair of trousers was draped in a soft spiral around each leg. A scattering of tiny embroidered pearls made long bias cut dresses look like precious jewellery. In a season that has so far been big on the casual, this was unadulterated glamour and old fashioned, highly polished chic.
- Paula Reed in New York