NYFW A/W ‘11 Report: Jason Wu

12 February 2011

It's all over the rails for Summer 2011, but Jason Wu is not done with lace yet. For his A/W '11 show, the still-only-28-year old designer, focused on the delicate fabric, taking inspiration from the restoration of Versailles to create a collection of what he dubbed "Baroque sportswear".

Wu, a self-confessed 'nerd', used fifteen different kinds of lace, made especially for him in Paris '[I] love techniques and I love beautiful fabrics. And they have to be right now — our customers are looking for things that are truly special.' Wu's customers won't be disappointed with this collection. Sheer chiffon blouses were high necked and overlaid with panels of lace; while strips of lace outlined grey flannel A-line skirts and the shoulders of tight grey knits and chic white tailored coats. Lace motifs were individually cut out and hand-sewn across dresses and skirts, creating random handcrafted patterns. Dresses had lace sleeves, or lace collarbone panels, and some were accessorised with Lady Gaga-esque sculpted lace masks that would be hard to imagine on America's First Lady - Wu's No.1 fan (although she would kill for the tulip-skirted silk prom dresses they appeared with). Mostly monochrome, the collection featured the odd hit of moody hues; dark chartreuse or deep tomato red. The evening wear was typically spectacular - floor length lace gowns smothered in flower-motif sequins, or sparkling beading - equally suitable for stately White House or the Oscar red carpet. In short; lots of baroque, not so much sportswear, from the man known for his effortless approach to elegance.

Meanwhile, Wu's obsession with Paris continues - it's where he'll be escaping to once all the Fashion Week madness has died down. Doubtless we'll be seeing more inspiration, and beautiful fabrics, from that trip on his Spring 2012 catwalk later this year. But for 2011 'we're definitely in a lace state of mind,' said the designer, speaking for us all.


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