05 October 2010

PFW S/S '11 report - Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci

Leopard and biker leathers pretty much summed up a tightly edited Givenchy show.

Tailoring was based on the biker jacket shape with wide collars and zipped fastenings. Some were cropped over ankle grazing gothic chiffon dresses, layered loosely over skinny trousers. Others morphed from black and camel leopard into crisp white knee length mannish tailored coats.

With bleached out eyebrows and braided or close cropped hair, the models worked a fiercely androgynous attitude. The leopard print disappeared into black on black brocade used for sharply tailored tuxedo jackets or was blown up into supersized leopard spots cut out of chiffon and re-embroidered on parkas and floaty dresses. 

Flesh pink knits were held close to the body in panels detailed with chunky zips. The same heavy metal motif added contrast to palest pink chiffon with delicate frilled shoulders and bibs trimmed with visible zips. Pretty battled with biker, but mostly the biker won. No contest really.

With most of fashion in full flight for escapist summer fantasies, this was a gritty reprise of modern Givenchy’s gothic theme. Riccardo Tisci may be dreaming of the open road but only journeys that are taken after dark.

- Paula Reed in Paris


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