05 October 2010

PFW S/S '11 report - Emanuel Ungaro

It was Giles Deacon's first collection for French label Emanuel Ungaro. His recent predecssors, including Lindsay Lohan (whose idea was THAT?! etc) had been spectacularly unsuccessful at the task of regenerating the house, so all eyes were on the 40 year old Brit. Could he capture the essence of Ungaro and make it relevant for today's woman?

If the collection we saw yesterday is anything to go by, the answer is a resounding "yes". Shown at a presentation at the Serre du Parc Andre Citroen in Paris' 15th arrondissement, it had all the hallmarks of of the golden age of Ungaro; colours were pretty - ice blues, palest pinks and delicate ivories. Fabrics were ultra-feminine, satin and lace with maribou trims. The overall feel was unashamed girlyness yet Giles' signature style DNA was in evidence too. From the irreverent sexiness of black lace T-shirts worn with va-va-voom pencil skirts and a deliberately-on-show white bra to the inspired casting of fashion mega star Anna Dello Russo (she wandered around talking to guests with a toy lamb named "Funbungo" tucked under her arm), Giles' brand of tongue-in-cheek fashion was stamped all over the collection. A match made in heaven.

Siobhan Mallen in Paris


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