The first song of Stella McCartney's S/S '11 show soundtrack - Blur's Boys & Girls - was the clue to the running theme of the collection; the play between masculine and feminine.
In the masculine corner she had mannish-cut tailoring. Jackets were long and lean, trousers sat high, with their cuffed hems kicking out slightly as they hit the ankle. Polo shirts were worn neat under suiting or over-sized as loose dresses. And tuxedos for evening. All these masculine elements were given an injection of femininity however; the suiting and polos came in an array of sherbet pastel shades - marshmallow pink, mint green, lilac and fresh blue. While on second glance the double-breasted tuxedos were cut away to reveal the entire back (the back is shaping up to be the erogenous zone of Summer 2011, so best start with the love-handle eradicating regime now!).
In the feminine corner, body-skimming fluid silk dresses and all-in-ones split high exposing tanned, toned thighs. And silky skirts were box pleated at the back to accentuate a womanly form.
The wild card of the collection was the vivid orange and lemon print that Stella used on stiff shirt dresses and trapeze-shaped tops that opened at the back - operating gown style.
The accessories (all non-leather - Stella is a famously strict Vegan) are worth a special mention; while only the youngest and most gorgeous of women could wear the mid-height ankle strap sandals without straying into frumpsville, the wicker weave clutches and satchels will no doubt have waiting lists forming as you read this!
- Siobhan Mallen in Paris