PFW S/S '11 Report: Giambattista Valli

04 October 2010

Short dresses and flat shoes everyone! Giambattista Valli is not known as a girl's best friend for nothing. He's given us a summer to look forward to. Tunic dresses grazed the body and hit above the knee. Cut in simple crepe or silk cady, fabrics that are among those weapons in a designer's armory that hold a shape and make all bods look good, they'll be worn as dresses by the many lithe of limb Giamba has on his customer list. For the rest of us they'll feature over cigarette pants as a cute summer suit. But whichever way you look at it, one-piece dressing with fuss-free accessories sound like a winning summer combination to me.

The colour palette evolved from neutrals with mirror-polished metallic pocket details to a combination of orange, leopard and silver geometric panels. It felt like a chic look for a glamorous life lived at high speed. Baroque swirls screen printed onto sheer organzas and transparent shifts with tumbling frilled anemones of fabric looked like an option for standing rather than running around in.

The trouser option was a high-waisted capri pant in black and white gingham with a waist-length A-line top worn (again) with flats. The heels came out only at the end for a series of grand gowns. Where the fabric is the star (floor-length skirts in voluminous embossed cloque fabric or tufted chiffon) the modernity is elusive. Short-sleeved T-shirt style tops pulled them back from something bordering on stately. But draped yellow and poison green chiffon were more the va-va-Valli that we've come to love.

- Paula Reed in Paris


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