Until a few months ago Roland Mouret had to call his collection “RM by the Designer Roland Mouret”  because his trademark was owned by his former business partner.  Now, though, he has his name back where it belongs, with him. And it seems by gaining his proper identity he also got his fashion mojo back with a vengeance.

In the show notes, Roland wrote: "I WANT to say what a pleasure it is to be showing again as Roland Mouret. When I lost my name I dared not imagine that this day would ever come, it has and I share it with you. I want to say merci to all who have supported me throughout, many of whom are here today. I am thrilled to be opening my first store on Carlos Place in Mayfair next spring and you are all invited. I wish you all the luck I have had, and maybe a little more.”

This show demonstrated the new silhouette sweeping Paris: longer lengths to the upper or lower calf balanced on a platform heel. His were wooden soled black peep-toe Geisha sandals with gold edging – tres YSL. He made his longer length dresses, in black, aqua, teal, oversized snake jacquard and gentle green silk with Japanese style watercolour prints, wearable by slicing splits into them. Smart.

What Roland also did this morning was re-establish his design signatures. So we got kimono cut jackets and wide-leg trousers. His longer line dresses were still body-sculpting, not body-con, and they featured cape backs, pagoda shoulder detail, a frill snaking along the back seam, or a thick zip all the better to whip the dress off with one pull. The show also acknowledged the trouser revival with cute flat-front crop trousers (loved the emerald ones) worn with darling 1930s style black and nude camisoles. He also provided shorts and utility waistcoats with a fashion luxe edge in khaki tones.

All in all this was a collection so in tune with fashion that we would wager almost everyone in the audience was making a Roland Mouret shopping list. We definitely were.

- Melanie Rickey, Fashion Editor at Large, in Paris