26 September 2010

MFW S/S '11 Report: Jil Sander

Next summer is going to be bright. That much we know for sure. And if, after so many seasons of rock chick gothic and ladylike neutrals, you are a colour virgin, then make straight for Jil Sander. Do not pass GO and collect all the £££’s you can to make a significant investment here.

Raf Simmons’ summer collection for the house was perfectly judged. Brilliant brights, a relaxed silhouette, styling that managed to be both seductively feminine and  convincingly contemporary. It was a show that didn’t miss a beat from start to finish.

Floor length dresses in fluorescent pink silk billowed from a gently gathered waist. The volume and formality of a silhouette that had echoes of Hubert de Givenchy era couture, was completely balanced by the short sleeved T-shirts that went with them.

A cobalt blue, gathered dirndl (again with the box fresh T-shirt) was styled over wide cobalt pants. The next white T-shirt came with a long slim skirt in mouthwateringly bright orange that had a little puff ball peplum sitting over the hips. Right after that, a black t shirt came with mint green wide length pants and royal blue peplum. Talk about colour combinations: this was the whole darn paint box, soda fountain and candy store. Fashion hasn’t felt this good in a very long time.

Next up were long, voluminous dresses in bright, bold floral prints tamed with a perfect navy parka. Or for romantics among us there was also a watercolour version in soft focus pastels.

An emerald green four pocket parka over canary yellow wide pants and fuschia t shirt and orange duster coat over black pants and fuschia shirt with canary peplum got prim lady like bags and shoppers in see through vinyl to make them street worthy. A traffic light orange column gathered at the knee was elegance on heels. The total looks were covetable and gorgeous. But individual elements like the sailor styled tunic tops, the slim boot cut pants or the hip length A line four pocket parkas could slip right into anyone’s wardrobe. The designer even pulled off the practically impossible with a chic cagoule: in cobalt blue parachute silk.

Thank you Raf. No one can ask for more than this.

- Paula Reed


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