The highlight of our Fashion East experience this season was the collection of heartbreakingly beautiful dresses by Felicity Brown. The designer who trained in textiles at the Royal College of Art and then worked for Alberta Ferretti and Lanvin, among others, created her sumptuous evening dresses with 3D swirls and rosettes fashioned from a millefeuille (literally – a thousand layers) of silk. The rough, raw edges saved the dresses from any danger of looking too prissy.
Felicity also demonstrated the best formula for a catwalk show – one idea, perfectly executed, in a variety of colours and shapes, each look more gorgeous than the last.
Heikki Salonen made dour, dark grey, black and off-white nineties grunge look elegant in his show. We thought the long skirts, buttoned-up square blouses and abstract prints were in line with what we already envision ourselves wearing this coming summer, save for a splash of colour, which was absent.
Simone Rocha showed us cool, all-white deconstructed menswear shapes that she brightened up with touches of pink and red tulle. Stand-out looks included an oversized men’s blazer, sleeve hacked off to create a mini dress, in python skin painted white, and sheer blouses with white collars and cuffs. The collection seemed to be influenced more by Nineties Margiela than the designer’s father, John Rocha. With oversized mannish shirts in diaphanous fabrics being so now, it didn't require much imagination to see us wearing her refined versions of the trend!
- Naomi Attwood