To be quite frank, after all the emotion of the exquisitely moving Alexander McQueen memorial held at St Paul’s cathedral this morning, by the time the red eyed fash pack arrived at the Erdem show, we were in need of something light and pretty to lift the sombre mood. And lucky for us Erdem Moralioglu’s S/S11 collection delivered light and pretty in spades.
Staged in an a open-sided round tent (which was much more chic then it sounds…) set in a picture perfect Victorian garden square in central London, the sun put in an appearance as the models tripped onto the circular catwalk. The first section of the show included a run of seriously chic white lace dresses; some divinely cut straight-up-and-down shifts and some flirty skater style – all enough to make any modern bride looking for an alternative to long, swoon! But the colour and print we’ve come to expect from an Erdem collection soon made an appearance. For spring, he experimented with clashing prints; both mixing different scales of floral prints as well as different colour palettes. He also played with patchworking two patterns together in a single piece. Some of the most successful items in the collection were also the most glamorous – two floor-length gowns, one in navy lace trimmed with a girlish white collar, the other white and green rose print, slit to the thigh, and reminiscent of 1940’s society ladies. Also worth a mention were the Nicolas Kirkwood shoes, designed especially for the collection. Our faves were the blocked-heeled sandals made of lace and floral-printed silk that tied up the ankle.
With this collection, Erdem cemented his place as the go-to man for clothes that celebrate femininity, while retaining a thoroughly modern edge.
- Siobhan Mallen