20 September 2010

LFW S/S '11 report: Julien Macdonald

Julien Macdonald demands your attention, even before his Spring 2011 show begins. As PRs spritzed Jo Malone's rose fragrance down the catwalk, Julien's glamorous FROW took their seats. Olivia Palermo chatted animatedly with Cat Deeley, Janice Dickinson growled as a late editor tried to squeeze in next to her and Elle Macpherson, Macdonald's 'Britain's Next Top Model' co-host, made a dramatic last minute entrance in a flurry of paparazzi flashbulbs.
 
As Gershwin's 'Summertime' set the mood, as Julien's model army, with sexily backcombed tousled manes, prowled the catwalk in barely-there white cobweb knit dresses and a medley of lingerie-inspired dresses. This was ultimately a soft, ultra-feminine collection, with only a hint of tailoring in neutral ticking striped fabric with corsetry buckle detailing. Loose gauzy white shirts over hot pants with lace trim and babydoll silk mini dresses appeared in a creamy palette, from white to cappuccino.  
 
Wispy bias cut negligee gowns glided by, one adorned with gold embroidery, others in a powdery lilacs and yellow, making way finally for a full-length tangerine dress with floral over-slip and a dramatic midnight blue floral gown with floating silk train.  
 
The aggressive sexiness and rock chick bias of past collections has gone, making way for Julien's romantic interlude.


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