Hopes were high for David Koma this season – after all, 2010 was the year that saw him progress from a name that only fashion insiders knew to one familiar to celebrity watchers everywhere, thanks to his support from Cheryl Cole, Beyonce and Kylie Minogue. Rather than a ‘one to watch’ straight out of CSM, he’s got plenty of cuttings and a NEWgen sponsored slot of the official LFW schedule.
The show took in a large variety of dresses – from his usual bodycon stock-in-trade to floor-sweepers and even a few skirt suits. His inspiration for the collection was The Ballet Russes, and indeed the first looks were ballerina-style in silhouette, although made of soft white leather and python skin with fabric inserts, rather than puffy tulle, to boost volume. As the show progressed the dresses grew tighter and more glitzy – embellished with small mirror tiles in gold against black or gold python skin against pastel yellow shifts. Out of all the looks on offer we liked the graphic monochrome ones best – the black and white ballerina dresses and suits.
In past seasons, David Koma collections have been easy to recognize despite his underground status, largely due to his habit of attaching such huge, seemingly unwieldy embellishments to the dresses and also for his abstract, often lopsided graphic features. Now he wants to be taken seriously more than ever he is looking to refine his creations without losing sight of what makes him unique. This collection looked confused at times with too much going on. Come on David! Don’t lose your confidence now you’ve got the chance to go really big!
- Naomi Attwood