How does she do it? That was the question everyone was asking at the finale of Mary Katrantzou's NEWGEN show. We were in awe of her beautiful prints of room interiors, that have been executed so perfectly that you want to dive straight into the blue azure sea beyond the shutters printed onto an off-the-shoulder pleated dress. The prints are always at the essence of Mary's collections, but over the last couple of seasons she's also moved the design on, so that you are looking at the intricate designs too.
The opening dress invited us straight into the grand world that Mary has explored, she even completed the dress with a shoulder panel that looked like a curtain pelmet. That may sound literal but it wasn't. Even lampshade skirts edged with Swarovski crystals were fabulous rather than ridiculous, especially when paired with simple silk blouses. Where last season she ventured into tailoring and trousers, S/S '11 is all about shorts and structured two-pieces.
Focus was brought to shoulders and hips with pleated details. In the finale, short exquisite dresses were made all the more elegant with to-the-floor inserts of pleated lightly-printed chiffon, which lightened the denseness of the prints.
Mary always creates over-the-top accessories, and we loved the chandelier and candelabra necklaces - well, what else would you need to complete the perfect room prints and perfect collection?
- Kay Barron