LFW S/S '11 report: Bora Aksu

18 September 2010

There are few designers who epitomise a gothy kind of romance better than Bora Aksu. So when the stiff white invitation is dotted with glossy black bugs, with shownotes entitled Ants & Corsets, you know this is the Turkish designer doing his own version of Spring-time prettiness.

In the whitewashed cellars of the On/Off show venue in Bloomsbury and to the strains of Billy Idol’s original version Of Dancing With Myself, the first things that leap out from the collection are the extraordinary tights (another Aksu signature) this time flesh-pink with random blue grey veining (more attractive than it sounds – think marbled Florentine writing paper).

Bora has always played with panelling in his dresses, but this season the jigsaw-patchwork of different sections was more intricate than ever; with shiny silver paisley brocade, grey lacework over a sweet flesh pink, or a cherry red dress with panels edged in ruffled bands.

Later the designer explained, the segmented designs were inspired by an ant’s body. But the effect was more beautiful, and bodycon, than buggy

And while the dresses with padding across the lower body suggested detailing that was bordering on gynaecological, the dresses with exoskeleton-like upper-body padding, like a Wonderbra worn outside the dress, will be a godsend for those of us lacking the must-have accessory of the moment – calendar model breasts.

Five things we loved
The cherry red puff sleeved blouse…
Silver paisley loose and low slung peg trousers
The mint silk-crepe draped over metallic shift
The little white bugs in the hair
The crazy tights

- Angela Buttolph


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