NYFW S/S '11 report: Narciso Rodriguez

15 September 2010

Narciso is the master tailor in this city. When the mood takes a romantic turn you can almost feel his pain. Asking him to soften up is like asking Sir Norman Foster work with thatch. Colour? From time to time you can almost hear a petulant, 'Must I? Oh all right then!' with a slash of red across his neutral palette.

But this season he softened with ease. The mannish tailoring segued into an ethereal femininity in such an easy way he looked like he really was actually enjoying himself. A simple grey shift dress opened the show (so far, so Narciso) but the back was cut low and finished with lingerie satin and a trim of tulle. Bias cut black chiffon laid over white hit mid calf and was topped with a sharply tailored mannish chesterfield coat. A petal appliqué t shirt softened a pair of masculine tailored trousers. Washed silks and delicate cliques were used under waxed linen and wool suitings. Blush pinks and nudes countered charcoals and black.   

It was a whole new world for Narciso and a whole new Narciso Rodriguez wardrobe for us.      

- Paula Reed in New York



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