Is that the whiff of fear I smell in the air or are there just a lot of halternecks and flares around? As a follow up to last season's barnstorming exercise in modern classics, Marc Jacobs,
The setting was the cavernous military hall of the Lexington Armoury with the usual scrum to get in. At 7.55 the queue of editors and buyers was snaking around the building. At 8.03 the first model appeared on the runway as last invitees in skittered across the wooden floor to their seats. Someone is clearly having a laugh here.
So the huge Frank Stella-esque sculptural centrepiece was where we said goodbye to the 21st century at this show. Once the (Vivaldi) music started there followed a collection that took us on a tour of the best of the last decade that struggled with lean times and louche living.
And on the way, we took in highlights of YSL, with stiff cotton peasant skirts and off the shoulder tops in purple and raspberry or pink and khaki colour combos. There was a nod to Missoni in skinny multicoloured knits; Walter Albini in the geometric prints; Biba in the jewel satin flares and skinny shirts and Bill Gibb in the billowy dresses.
Pinwheel straw hats, platform stacked heel sandals, clutch bags with jewelled clasps and huge silk orchid corsages were the finishing touches to a collection that was less about dressing and more about dressing up.
- Paula Reed in New York