Wow, what a difference a year makes. Sophia Kokosolaki took over as Creative Director at Diesel Black Gold and in only her second season out has won for the label a poll position among coolest shows of the day on one of the biggest days of NY fashion week.
The collection retained all it's rock and roll attitude but the styling was tightened up, the edit was rigorous and the message was pin sharp. These are clothes for the urban hipster for whom a laid-back ease is more important than a fashion statement and a seductive whisper is more effective than a spotlight-hogging scream.
Softest leathers and suedes were the key fabrics and all looked as if they had already been owned and loved for a long time. Against a New York skyline, the chocolate brown shirt-jackets over denim shorts and stacked-heel boots, the tobacco leather boot-legged jeans, the honey suede mini-skirts with lace ties and whip-stitched tunic tops all looked like pieces that could have walked right off the runway and into a cool downtown summer wardrobe right there and then.
The high-waisted flare and skinny jacket are becoming a cool classic silhouette and Diesel Black Gold's version in leather and linen will keep it hot for another season.
Imagine if the 1970's YSL model Verushka was let loose in James Dean and Clint Eastwood's wardrobe and you've got it.
- Paula Reed in New York