07 March 2010

PFW AW10 Report: A Global Mash up at Gaultier

At his a/w 2010 show last night,  Jean Paul Gaultier offered up a collection influenced by traditional costume from across the globe.  The scene was set when the curtains at the end of the catwalk drew back to reveal a veritable United Nations of a folk band (Chinese flutes, Romany accordians and a Russian bass Balalaika were all represented) standing on a huge ceiling-high scaffold.  The collection followed this theme of global glamour.  African printed fabrics worn as turbans were put together with jackets with eastern European style brightly embroidered trims; a Cossack fur hat with a chinoiserie dress.  With other looks Gaultier used a lighter touch,  taking one ethnic piece and mixing with something altogether more modern; a red knitted jerkin (think Santa’s helpers in Lapland) worn over a grey marl hoody and brick red harem pants or a khaki military tail coat with  a flowing silk plissé skirt in a Romany floral print.

The global theme was perhaps a little laboured, but JPG’s trademark pieces - the striped maillot tops, masculine cut jackets and gorgeous trench coats (the best of which he had shrunken down to jacket proportions and paired with super baggy jeans made from stiff untreated denim), were all there if you looked past the crazy headdresses, multiple layers and bonkers shoes.

- Siobhan Mallen in Paris


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