AW10 PFW Report: Lanvin

06 March 2010

The fashion crowd love a Lanvin show, not just for the clothes but for the hospitality.  Yesterday we were treated to glasses of champagne and delicious chocolate lollies, which certainly went a long way to taking the edge off the 45 minute wait for the show to start.

The set was simple yet dramatic - a spiral staircase from which the models descended to the catwalk (those girls certainly earned their fees - it’s no mean feat confidently striding down stairs in four inch heels with no hand rail to steady you.  I was a nervous wreck just watching, but I’m pleased to report there was not even a stumble).

Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elbaz makes no secret of the fact that he strives to create wearable, comfortable clothes (which may seem like a no brainer, but there are plenty of designers who’d consider ‘wearable’ a dirty word).  Although his A/W 2010 collection was true to this mission (I for one would happily wear most of it in a heartbeat), it had a harder, more fierce feel that seasons gone by.  Shapes were stricter, shoulders bigger and the colour palette somber (mainly black, navy , grey and bottle green, although there were notable exceptions to this; a peachy floor-length gown with an attached  cape; a tobacco lace blouse which was worn with a black lace pencil skirt - so chic; and a fabulous ruby red coat with giant shoulders).

The girls wore uniform angular black wigs - think Uma Thurman in Pulp Fiction, but a fraction longer - which added to the overall paired down feel.

What we loved:

* The two dresses worn by Freja Beha Erichsen and Natasha Poly, that were draped and pleated at the front, but a form-fitting shift from the back.

* The ruby red strong shouldered coat -  talk about a statement!

*  The Marabou feather covered black shift.  The feathers trailed out dramatically as the model walked.  Divine.

* The music.  The bobbed army striding down the catwalk to the finale tune ‘Love Train’ was fashion magic.

* Alber Elbaz - just the sight of him shyly taking his curtain call makes us smile.  What a lovely man, fashion could do with a few more Albers!

- Siobhan Mallen in Paris


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