PFW AW10 Report: Giles Deacon

04 March 2010

Giles Deacon moved his catwalk show to Paris last September after winning the French ANDAM Fashion Award, the largest cash prize in fashion at 160,000 euros. Yay for Giles! Also part of the award is a slot on the prestigious Paris schedule.  Sounds good, but it’s actually a bit weird for the Grazia gang: in London a Giles show was an event.  In Paris his slot was on the low-key but cool first day. But what this show lacked in buzz, it sooo made up with supermodels, Kristin Scott Thomas perched front row and what we love Giles for most - his sexy, off-beat and humorous fashion.

As reported on Grazia Daily last night, Giles and his stylist Katie Grand hired grown-up curvy model babes including Karolina Kurkova, Angela Lindvall and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. They prowled the runway in what surprisingly turned out to be a collection of womanly clothes addressing the needs of a modern working life coupled with evening wear angled more for a cocktail party than the red carpet dresses Giles is famous for.

The first look was a brown torso-sculpting corseted mini-dress that flared provocatively from the hips. It was followed by a slew of sexy secretary fashion essentials, a shift dress, cropped jacket and short pencil skirt all in beige; but this being Giles it was not staid. Oh no! Leather embellishment, corset tops and giant shearling lined leather hoods were thrown in to keep it jazzy. Then, oddly, Giles showed us how to blend orange with brown  - notably a jaunty pleated short brown coat with orange cropped trousers. How 70’s is that? He also tucked a silky slashed orange top into a flirtatiously short beige pencil skirt, and layered tunics over cropped trousers. This was Giles doing twisted ‘conservative’.

Next he riffed on sportswear staples pairing an iridescent moiré puffa jacket with a stiff skating skirt; and showed a hooded loose drop-waist belted furry coat in leather that was a beat away from a dressing gown!  Of course no Giles show is complete without humour and a show-stopping dress or two. We loved the furry bag with cartoon eyes designed by Katie Hillier, and the cute cartoon cloud print used to cover the floor of his runway turned up on a silk shift. His glamour explosion came short and sequinned in gold and silver, in bright orange with an exploding multi-tiered and ruffled skirt and in a body-hugging acid print corset dress.  Giles told Grazia post show that he was inspired by Erwin Olaf the Dutch photographer known for his surreal imagery and wanting to create as he says “comfy, wearable clothes.”

- Melanie Rickey in Paris


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