04 March 2010

PFW AW10 Report: Gareth Pugh

It’s always fab when British designers hit Paris; it means they are on the global stage and bedazzling a global audience. British designers Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon made Paris feel like London last night when they took over the evening schedule to present their Autumn/Winter 2010 shows one after the other. Gareth Pugh had Sean “Puffy” Combs on his front row. Ooh, what a coup! Combs, snuggled next to French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld, worked it in head-to-toe black - a sheepskin coat, T-shirt and tailored trousers – but couldn’t resist his bling. We loved watching his giant gold medallion glint in the glare of the catwalk lighting.

Fittingly, Gareth Pugh put out an almost all-black collection, the only other colour was grey.  Yet minimal palette equals precise show and this was his most sophisticated, desirable and – yes! – wearable offering to date. Using neoprene-backed leather, tailored into thick chevron panels, he created wonderful coats and jackets that hugged the body before radiating outwards to create most pleasing swingy proportions. He paired these with a tight leather trouser, his new gently flared to-the-floor tailored trouser or his stand out over-the-knee black leather boots.  Love!

This may just turn out to be Pugh’s break-out collection. For those who pigeon-hole Pugh as an edgy dark and Gothic designer operating in the shadow of his mentor Rick Owens (also front row) - hear this.  We believe his asymmetric cut, cobwebby knit long cardigan, snug short dress with leather side panels, fiercely shiny trench with wide obi belt (on Karlie Kloss) and the long dress with swagged leather fringing  are instant wardrobe classics for style-minded women everywhere.  Oh, and there were guys on the runway too – but Gareth told us post-show that they were mere “accessories” for his power-women. Go Gareth!

by Melanie Rickey in Paris


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