27 February 2010

MFW AW10 Report - Jil Sander

Hooray: the suit is back. It’s been building a head of steam through New York and London Fashion Weeks and on Friday night it became official. Raf Simmons, the designer at Jil Sander says so and frankly just about any thing he says goes. 

They came in collarless tweed: simple boxy jackets with a gentle curve at the waist and a soft A line skirt. And they came in a tartan mohair: a loud check for a very quiet single breasted silhouette with a classic skirt. There was a discreet power in the Jil Sander suiting. A full on feminine Gordon Gekko would be out of step right now. But the Jil Sander woman means business al the same. For her, there is a discreet reassurance in this new Sander suiting. It’s something to do with being pulled together.

For the past several seasons fashion has been all about separates that have to be put together with a certain attitude. The suit does away with the need for all of that proportion balancing and accessorising and colour coordinating (or, more precisely, un-coordinating). The suit does it all for you. 

Raf Simmons proposed another direct route to being perfectly turned out: the double face cashmere coat dress. This baby is so simple it doesn’t even need a lining and for AW10 it comes in camel or inky black in a classic Chesterfield shape or gently curved jacket with vertical seams that follow the line of the waist rather than nip it in.

With all of these styling solutions and problem solving, I do not quite follow the logic behind the second skin tailored catsuits. But, what the hell…….maybe a particularly nimble businesswoman, who back-flips to work, would find them perfect. 

 

- Paula Reed in Milan


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