24 February 2010

LFW AW10 Report - Ashish

Although Ashish has plenty of design trademarks – the slouchy cut, the fully sequinned pieces and his sports de luxe, each season his muse seems to come from a radically different locale. Last season’s picture postcards from Florida have been replaced for AW by a robust, mannish vision of life in Ashishistan – yep, you read that right.    

‘Kilim prints – you know kilim, like the rugs, a little gyspy girl who wears boys and girls clothes at once – mixing right and wrong’ Ashish told us straight after the show. It’s that Central Asian, East European sensibility, a man’s overcoat and brogues with a printed dress in felt-tip brights, a woolly hat and fingerless gloves with a striped t shirt or even pyjama top and bottoms. He even confessed that he’d been listening to ‘Afghanistan folk music’ while creating the collection.  

Except of course – they aren’t printed skirts or dresses; they are covered entirely in meticulously hand applied sequins. This season he’s even managed to produce a glistening sequinned mini dress in the shape of a cricket jumper, complete with trompe l’oeil cables which, although styled here with dour grey wide-legged pants, will no doubt be on the back of one of his devoted left-of-centre popstars (Paloma Faith or VV Brown) teamed with sexy stockings, high heels and lipstick in a few months time.  

Even if some present were disappointed with the comparative lack of razzle dazzle next to previous seasons, Ashish was bang on trend with the following features-  

- Flat shoes; models at various shows from Marc Jacobs in New York to Jaeger here have been giving thanks to designers for letting them off with a flat sole this AW.  

- Longer length – both his tweedy skirts hoiked high and belted at the waist AND his spaghetti-strapped full-length sequinned slip dresses hung L.O.W. Antonio Berardi and Meadham Kirchoff were just two of the other designers to let down their hems this season.  

- Tweed. Usually spottable somewhere for AW, the tweeds of the moment are being used in a clean, modern way rather than a retro, ‘Horse  & Hound’ way.   Good show, Ashish!

-Naomi Attwood

WATCH! Grazia backstage at Ashish!


Comments

All posts must obey the house rules, if you object to any comments please let us know and we'll take the appropriate action.