LFW AW10 Report: Marios Schwab

23 February 2010

Thanks to Halston, Marios Schwab has hit the big time. As the label's new Creative Director, this season saw him debut his first Halston collection in New York last week. The reviews may have been mixed, but there is no denying that he is now out of the 'struggling young designer' folder. Where his design aesthetic was obvious in the luxe brand collection, it was interesting to see the influence of Halston in his eponymous work. In fact, where he stripped Halston back to its roots, it seems that it might have refreshed his palette too. For this collection was far simpler than in recent seasons. Gone are the layers, crystals and quirky 3-D prints, and instead he presented a very concise and well-edited show that showcased his skill for tailoring. Sharp shoulders, curved bolero jackets and simple white shirts all held the opening section. It then moved into corsetry to really emphasise the waist - complete with hook detailing that was as much adornment as it was practical. But the odd thing about this collection (especially as Marios is now working at such a grown up house), was that it all seemed very young. There were few people in the crowd that you could imagine wearing it...well...and there weren't any stars that sprung to mind who might wear it. Not that that should distract from the elegance of the collection, but it was difficult to see his true identity in it.

- Kay Barron


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